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NOTE:
These Ratings are ONLY to be used as a basic guide line.
Voltages are usually much higher than shown so expect more.
 
NOTE: Our model numbers have nothing to do with voltages.
 
2700 RPM MAXIMUM!
Torque Calculations:
We have no Torque figures since Torque is totally a function of LOAD. A PMA with no load requires ZERO torque to turn at a ZERO load. You can't rate PMA's with simple torque figures since "AMPS" or "LOAD" is up to every individual situation and individual people have endless configuration ideas for their
DRIVER and LOAD figures for whatever "Gizmo" they are building.
 
These is all you really need to know is:
1 HP = 745 Watts / This is the conversion figure of electrical power to mechanical power and vis-versa. From the HP and YOUR amp load figure you can calculate any required
TORQUE figures for YOUR specific driver and YOUR specific LOAD which WE do not know.
 

Power Core 1212

Ohms law calculator

Power Core 18

Ohms law calculator
 

Power Core 12

 

Ohms law calculator

Power Core 24

Ohms law calculator

Power Core 48

Ohms law calculator

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NOTE: These Ratings are ONLY to be used as a basic guide line. Voltages may be higher than shown.

 
NOTICE FOR ANY OF YOU A.E. NOVICES OUT THERE:
 
A battery is basically a BIG capacitor in electronic terms. Once your batteries are fully charged you must THEN stop putting any additional power into it!
 
Wind is unpredictable so at low wind speeds you want to make sure that your PMA can still exceed the voltage of your battery bank. (11 volts at a 200 amp potential going into a 12 volt battery = zero charge)
 
Tech notes: Do not attempt to use a pulley smaller than 2 5/8" - The belt tension required to keep the belt from slipping on a smaller pulley will severely limit bearing life.
 
5 to 8 HP engines are the most popular power choice for people trying to achieve maximum results from their PMA's.
TECH NOTES:
 
Taking apart a PMA the right way.
 
1. Remove the 4 housing bolts and pull the front housing off OVER the shaft. Never pull the rear housing off first!!!!
If it is jammed or rusted use some WD-40 on the shaft and alternately tap the mounting wings with a hammer while applying pressure to the shaft with your thumb so that the stator and it's delicate wiring harness is kept in place. NOTE: If the shaft is scored-up badly you may have to sand the shaft down to it's original 17mm size to get the front housing off.
 
2. Now grab the exposed rotor core shaft and pull it out WHILE holding down the stator ring with your index
finger and thumb. This will take LOTS of strength!!!!! If you fail to hold the stator in place the core and stator
will be extracted together and the wires will be torn off of the stator and this is unrepairable! This is a tricky maneuver and usually takes some experience and lots of muscle!!!!!!!
 
3. Once the rotor core has been successfully extracted the rectifier connections are exposed and you may now unfasten the three wire nuts to safely remove the stator coil. (To reassemble simply reverse procedure)
 
Warranties will be void on any PMA that is opened by a customer.
Any PMA experimentation and examination is at your own risk.
 
 

CLICK DRAWING TO ENLARGE

 
Three phase units need a rectifier
 

PLEASE NOTE:
VOLTAGES - ARE RATED WITH CIRCUIT OPEN -
AMPERAGES - ARE RATED WITH CIRCUIT CLOSED-
ACTUAL CHARGING VOLTAGES MAY VARY DEPENDING ON YOUR SPECIFIC LOAD.
These curves show the maximum Voltage OR Amperage
POTENTIAL but is not showing both SIMULTANEOUSLY!!!
Only YOUR specific LOAD can determine the final Wattage.
 

These PMA's have no over heat protection. These PMA's will try to push ANY load you place on them until the coils literally burn up. You have to exercise caution during R&D of new products and check frequently for any over heating. You especially have to exercise caution when using an engine or other high torque driver to turn them. Use the proper circuit breaker and wire size for your load. It is very easy and very tempting to operate them past their over heating limits but be warned if you burn up a PMA it is going to be your fault and not ours so watch them very carefully during R&D for over heating!!!!! No warranties on any burned up PMA's!!! If they start smoking or making a burning smell your load is simply too large for the speed your are operating at. Running them slower or reducing the load may work in some applications! However the problem may also be that you are running them so slow that the cooling fan does not pull enough air into the case. The solution is to run at a faster RPM and reduce amperage load until it runs cooler. They normally do run hot averaging 250 degrees + in most applications but they should not smoke or make a burning smell. When coil varnish starts burning it is an obvious smell. Use a wiring guide chart and select the proper sized wire for your amperage and voltage requirements. Inspect the coils during R&D. If the coils vanish has turned black they have been run with an excessive amperage load for that RPM range. Inadequate sized wire can cause excessive loads on your PMA coils especially in 12 volt charging applications!

 

Power at max amps is rated as a DEAD SHORT on our charts! That is to be used as a guide line sine we DO NOT know your loads in ohms.
To operate at a dead short is impossible so figure roughly 25% of this amperage at a 80% duty cycle or 20% at a 100% duty cycle.
As a rule you may never set the RPM so that these PMA's are making over 2000 watts! To do so would over heat the coils.
 
 
2700 RPM MAXIMUM!
 

NOTE: PMA's used with engines driving them require a fan kit for cooling.

WARNING: IF you are pulling over 300 Watts without a cooling fan your PMA it will over heat! Fan kits are very important to have on ALL high amp applications!!!!--- Keeping your PMA's cooled, fused and under reasonable loads is the operators full responsibility. Monitor your PMA for excessive heating in all experimental machinery! Maximum PMA's operating temperature is 350 F. for 100% duty cycle. No warrantee's on ANY burned out PMA's! They are sold in good working condition and you have to keep them cool and never over loaded regarding amperage draw.
 
A PMA RUNNING SLOW AND DRAWING FULL AMP LOAD IS A DEAD PMA!
Here is a buying guide to help you choose the right PMA and keep it cool.
 
Following these figure are ONLY a guide and is not a guarantees cool operation since your amp load can still be to extreme. Don't pull more amperage then they can handle. If you burn one up you own it!!! No warranties on burned up PMA's!!! All sales Final. If you are an amateur and do not understand electrical windings and how much heat they can take please don't buy one of our PMA's. If you are experienced watch for over heating and be careful.
 
PLEASE NOTE: Our model numbers have nothing to do with voltages. For instance, our model #120 series can make 1,400 volts if you spin it at 18,000 RPM or it can make 12 volts if you spin it at 200 RPM. The '120' code is ONLY a stock number as are ALL the model numbers in ALL our PMA's. Our model numbers (#) are NOT voltage designations!
 
#HD series PMA's produce unregulated D.C. voltage and may require a charge controller for smaller batteries banks or non-grid connected applications.
 
 
Battery regulator / Dump load regulator
 
Regulate your BATTERY instead of your wind turbine, solar panels or any AE devices.
 
 
See http://www.outbackpower.com grid tie systems and more info on spinning your power meter backwards.
 
(PMA's have no over heat protection. Please use the appropriate fuses to protect your PMA coils)
 
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