Bio Diesel / Green Diesel / Black Diesel
Making Equipment and Supplies
 
THE BIO-PASS PROCESS
 
Learn how to make virtually free fuel to run cars, trucks, heaters and generators!
Restaurants and automotive garages PAY to have their used oil hauled away!
These oils are FREE for the taking plus you will be doing the shop owner a favor too!
Used cooking and crankcase oils can easily be converted into fuel that can run all
Diesel and turbine engines! Learn how by reading this web page.
 
Glycerin has an affinity with blend with
water so it will bond to water if given a chance.

Our Acusorb® beads act as "Water-Bond Magnets" while our Wicking filter will not allow water soluble chemicals to pass through it. Since only oil can cling to the Wicking filter it effectively repels any water soluble chemicals like Glycerin and fatty acids thus keeping them from passing through. Between these two actions oil is made clean enough to burn in any engine.
 
50,000 people are now using our systems.
 
Our Bio-Pass® system can be used to avoid the entire
Alkaline/Alcohol process! A Bio-Pass® system can also be employed
to cut chemical processing costs in half when utilized as
a pre-filtering device in all Alkaline/Alcohol processes.
 
If you are serious about making any type of Diesel fuel alternatives the
Bio-Pass® systems will be a great help to your endeavors which ever formula you choose.
 

Read letters from happy oil-fuel customers

 


The BIO-PASS system:
 
Hydrous Ion-Adsorption and Re-esterification Process -
 
Easy to use as One, Two, Three!
 
1. Mix your pre-filtered Waste Vegetable Oil (WVO) with some ordinary Diesel fuel* to thin it out!
 
2. Micro-filter your WVO through a half micron Bio-Pass filter equipped with a water trap.
 
3. Remove water molecule groups by passing this mixture through the Acusorb beads. Done!
 
 
This oil is now ready to use in any Diesel engine or oil burner with the addition of approximately 20% standard Diesel fuel as a thinner.
No need to preheat oil before combustion.
(Diesel admixture ratios may vary from engine to engine and in colder climates)
 
(Cheaper red dyed non-taxed Diesel fuel is available at your local commercial fuel dealer. See your yellow pages under FUEL or OILS. Note Red Diesel is for off-hwy use only)
Adding at least 5% Diesel is VERY important as this kills off any WVO eating bacterium thus preserving your oil.
 
Green and Black oils are much cheaper, safer and simpler to make than Alkaline/Alcohol fuels
 

Legally - What Is "Bio-Diesel" ??

 
 


 

WICKING Oil Filters-
 

Filters made from porous micro tube

fiber are important for 'Wicking"

 
("Wicking" is the selective osmoses of oil that is mixed with undesirable emulsifying substances capable of joining with both hydrous compounds and or oils as well)
 
A Wicking filter is good for about 5000 to 8000 gallons of averagely clean pre-filtered oil.
Remove the separated hydrous fluids that accumulate at the bottom of the filter housing when it's about half full.
Cleaning your filter is very simple. The filter should be placed in any clothes washing machine on the gentle cycle and washed in hot water, spin dry cycle OK. Use about two cups of detergent. Very simple and easy to maintain! Lasts forever.
 
Do not wash any cloths when you are cleaning your filter!
 

 

 

 

 

"Wicking" oil filters allow clean oil to easily pass through them as the oil "Wicks" along specially treated fibers that repel hydrous bonds. The "Wicking" process occurs when hydrous contaminants are filtered out by being literally squeezed away from the oil saturated wicking material.
 

 

 

See this filter in action BUT do
not forget to buy the Acusorb beads too !
They work as a team!
 

 


 

Stop Trying To Be A Alkaline/Alcohol Scientist!
Here are the advantages of the Bio-Pass fuel making process.
 
 
Bio-Diesel Glycerin byproduct buyers list;
(NOBODY YET)
 
Good reasons NOT to use the Alkaline/Alcohol method.
Diesel fuel is already hydrophilic (attracts water) so why add to
the problem by adding a SUPER-hydrophilic agent like alcohol?
 
Alcohol has a naturally high-octane index with is why super high compression engines in race cars run so well on alcohol based fuels. Lower distillates like Diesel fuels have a high cetane index. Octane and cetane indexes are INVERSE scales to each other so one naturally counteracts the other is most cases. A Diesel engine needs an adequate cetane level in order to operate properly. Cetane is a long hydrocarbon chain chemically called 1-hexadecane. It is written as C16H34 or a chain of 16 carbon atoms with 34 hydrogen atoms attached also referred to as paraffins and are members of the wax family.
Fuels that have a high octane number automatically have a low cetane number, and a high cetane fuel has a low octane number. Anything with a high octane rating will retard Diesel fuel's ability to ignite upon injection. Any excess alcohol left in your Alkaline/Alcohol brewed Diesel fuels will inhibit combustion in your Diesel engine since it raises octane thus lowering cetane! Improper Alkaline/Alcohol ratios can easily leave excessive alcohol in your home brewed fuels and this requires lots of water washing, rinsing, time and energy to remove!
As we mentioned earlier Diesel fuels are extremely hydrophilic thus attracting water so now your fuel is wet again.
Making ASTM grade Alkaline/Alcohol brewed fuels can be a real mess unless your a top notch chemist!
 
 
Do Alternative Diesel Fuel The Easy Way With Acusorb® Beads!
 
We do not sell books on the Bio-pass process since it's so simple! You can mix together any ratio of Acusorb® bead cleaned Green and Black (vegetable and crank case) oils and then add some ordinary Diesel fuel to the mixture. If you get stingy with the amount of Diesel fuel you add to the blend your engine or heater will start producing excess smoke. So then you add more Diesel fuel to the next batch until it burns acceptably cleaner and there you have it,, a cheap and clean burning fuel! It's not rocket science.
Do what ever works and never argue with success! Hint; A good starting point is 75% waste oil and 25% Diesel.

See engines and turbines running on used cooking and motor oils.

 
 
Acusorb beads can be reused by simply heating them and driving off the contamination.
 
Acusorb® Beads
Hydrous Ion-Adsorption and Re-esterification beads -
(This inorganic Polymer contains Silver and Zinc chlorides and nitrates creating powerful hydrous attraction)
 
Reuse them hundreds of times!
Can be regenerated by heating!
A 30 lb. container is capable of processing over 1,000,000 gallons of oil in its life time (assuming average restaurant grade deep frying oil).
 
When your oil starts coming out milky it's a sign that the beads need regeneration. When you reactivate and heat the beads you will see lots of dense white smoke coming out of the oven. This is the Glycerin vaporizing off of the beads.
(Back in an older Hollywood Glycerin was the chemical of choice for making artificial fog and smoke on many movie sets. Now-a-days they use propyleneglycol called "fog fluid" instead since the fumes
are less chocking then the acrolein fumes caused by glycerin vaporization.
 
Just make sure you bake the beads at least 300 feet away from people, pets and other homes so that the dense white smoke of the vaporizing glycerin doesn't become a nuisance. Breathing any of these fumes is to be STRICTLY avoided! Acrolein fumes can be toxic in high concertations. Glycerin smoke is not toxic in tiny amonts but you just never know what kind of other nasty stuff people may have dumped into their waste oils.
 
The whole Acusorb process is a VERY cost effective one, much cheaper than using thousands of gallons in alcohol for the Bio-Diesel process. Green oil and Black oil fuel additives are also non-caustic, pH neutral and do not require washing or pH adjustments like Bio-Diesel fuels do.

 

How to regenerate the Acusorb® beads
After your Acusorb beads have absorbed all the water molecule groups (25% of their own weight) they can be reactivated by simply oven baking them at between 325 and 350 degrees F. for a few hours or until they stop smoking. Simply place the beads into a large aluminum "Turkey" basting tray available from at any grocery store.
Many veteran "bead bakers" have reported that they use the smoke as a signal that the regeneration of the beads is complete. As soon as the beads stop producing the majority of their smoke the oven is turned off. The beads are then allowed to cool in the oven until they reach about 100 degrees F. then are immediately dumped into a bucket of clean oil to keep them from absorbing water from the air. These beads are now ready for use again!
Notes: Do not over bake the beads and never exceed 375!!! If they turn black they have been over cooked and are DOA!
 
(Do not try this in your home oven! Purchase an old used electric oven with thermostat and put it outside!)
 

"Alkaline/Alcohol is a great process for big corporate plants but is not necessarily the best route for small

companies or individuals seeking energy independence. The Acusorb bead process is a proven alternative"

 

See used oil powered engines

 

Acusorb beads work well on the following waste oil products:
 
 
Testing if Acusorb® beads need regenerating
 
TESTING PROCEDURE
 
1. Add one teaspoon of water to one cup of new soybean or rape seed oil.
2. Place this mixture into a drink blender and blend until white a creamy (5 minutes or more is best).
3. Pour the white creamy mixture into two glasses.
4. Add a tablespoon of NEW Acusorb beads into one glass and then a tablespoon of the OLD used beads into the other glass.
 
Check the next morning (8 to 12 hours) and observe the condition of both milky/oily water solutions.
The glass with the new beads should be crystal clear as all the water is in the beads now!!!
If the test solution containing the used beads is still milky white then the beads need regenerating. Heating them to 325 to 350 F and NO hotter for a few hours in an electric oven should do the trick. For more info on regenerating beads read the article below.
 


 
Pricing on 3/16" Hydrous Ion-Adsorption and Re-esterification beads -
Silver And Zinc Salts Added For Extra Holding Power!!!
*30 lbs of beads is enough to process 5000 gallons of waste oil before
regeneration is required assuming the oil is not extremely contaminated.
 
MAXIMUM OIL FLOW RATE-
For every 30 lbs. of beads you have in your waste oil circuit
you will be able to process approximately 8 to 16 gallons per hour.
384 gallons per day maximum flow rate for new or freshly recharged beads. This rate may decrease as the beads get saturated with contaminants. The oil flowing out of the beads should always look clear when you have the flow rate adjusted properly. Extremely contaminated oils may need to be processed at slower flow rates!
 
#AB30 - 30 lb. bag of Acusorb beads BUY NOW!
 
Green-Diesel and Black-Diesel fuels are only to be used for fueling electric generators, jet turbines, farm and construction equipment or oil burners used for heating. Engines running waste oil should not be ran to slowly, lugged or otherwise be forced to operate under severely loaded conditions as this may cause smoke.
Diesel / oil mix ratios may vary from 10% to 50%. (Cold weather, stop and go type driving or pulling a heavy trailer may require more Diesel - a 50/50 mixture possibly. You just have to be flexible and do what every it takes to makes things work)
Operating equipment running on Green-Diesel or Black-Diesel fuels is not an exact science and is only recommended for those individuals that have some mechanical aptitude and enjoy discovery and experimentation. If you are that kind of individual you may find yourself making your own fuels for as little as 15 cents per gallon.


"F" series - Wicking oil filter kit with water trap -
 
INCLUDES:
 
 
 
 
Model #F11 / Wicking Oil Filter and 1/10 micron cartridge with 3/8" female threads -
For use with gear or vacuum pumps. For continuous oil processing requiring absolute fit type.
Offers fast and full filtration but requires a vacuum pump. Works with gravity too but is very slow.
BUY NOW!
 
Model WFC / Wicking Filter Cartridge
Replacement for #F11 Wicking Filters
BUY NOW!
 
Other helpful items:
 
#FMM - Metal mounting bracket kit -Mount your #F11 or F12 oil filter on a wall.
BUY NOW!
 

CLICK THE LINK BELOW to buy an $19.00 pump for your F-11 filter - (3/4" to 3/8" hose adaptors required)
 
 

 
 

 

BUILD YOUR OWN SYSTEM

 

 

 
 

NOTE: Our filtering systems are designed for vacuum or gravity ONLY! Not designed for pressure type systems!!!
Wicking type oil filters are not conducive to pressure since this makes the fiber structure collapse.
You must draw (suck) the oil through Wicking type Bio-Pass oil filters in order for them to "Wick" properly.
Pulling oil into the filter creates the delicate osmoses and pressure balances that the "Wicking" process requires.

 
#CDP6 - Commercial Bio-Diesel
Green Oil / Black Oil Plant
 
Portable plant on trailer can make 6000 gallons of fuel grade oil per day. This can save a large company $5000.00 a day in fuel costs. This unit can pay for itself in 38 days!
 
Fully automated! Runs 24 hours a day without human intervention. Just keep that chemical tanks full and make sure you have a real big fuel tank since this unit will produce 6000 gallons every 24 hours. 700 gallon mix tank can make true Bio-Diesel using standard alkaline alcohol methods or Bio-Pass fuel using our beads, wicking filters and resin processes. Just push a button and the computer does the rest! 12 different fuel mixing programs to choose from! "Smart Sensor" technology makes sure fuel is up to any standards you specify.
pH controller makes prefect fuel every time!
 
 
#CDP6 - $189,000.00 - Includes 2 days on site training.
Lead time 14 to 16 weeks to build / 50% down payment to start.
Remaining 50% at time of inspection or shipment. FOB Mojave, CA.
 
Touch screen interface for fully automatic and manual control. Touch a pump symbol on the computer screen and it turns on! Touch it again and it turns off. Need to open a drain valve, simply touch the valve symbol you wish to command on the computer screen and it will happen in real time while giving you a verbal command confirmation that the valve is now opening. Our model # CDP6 commercial oil plant on wheels is an engineers dream come true! - STATE OF THE ART fuel processing is here today!
 
Tax notice: All the fuels on this web site are NOT for use on the public streets.
 
NOTES: FUEL ADDITIVES ARE NON-TAXABLE WHEN POURED INTO TAXED FUEL WITHIN THE FUEL TANK OF YOUR VEHICLE.
Also this all needs to be happening WITHIN the fuel tank of your registered vehicle ,,, not in an external mixing tank,,, OK. Enough said.
When you buy "FUEL ADDITIVES " from the automotive store they do not carry a "fuel tax" and are perfectly legal to pour into your fuel tank.
Like everything in law there are loop holes, taking advantage of a loop hole is perfectly ethical + legal.
We assume no liability and do not give legal advise.
 

 

Learn how to make virtually free fuel to run cars, trucks, heaters and generators!

 

Restaurants and automotive garages PAY to have their used oil hauled away!

 

You can take these oils for FREE and make a few new friends doing them a favor.

 

Used cooking and crankcase oils can easily be converted to run Diesel engines and oil heaters! Learn how HERE!

 

What is GREEN-DIESEL or Green oil fuel additive ?
Used cooking oil - to -"Green-Diesel" process!
 
Green-oil is micron filtered vegetable oil with the water bound contaminates removed by hydrous ion-adsorption process. Our special ion-adsorption beads make the process easy and inexpensive! When Green-oil is mixed with Diesel it becomes Green-Diesel.
The hydrous ion-adsorption beads can be regenerated forever by burning them in an oven every few years.
No alcohol is needed - just pump used vegetable oil in on one end and out comes usable Green-oil on the other end. Green-oil is then mixed with 10% to 30% Diesel fuel and becomes Green-Diesel and is used in any Diesel type motor, jet turbine or oil burner. Soy oil is one of the most popular and best burning WO's (waste oils) that is available out there and that is what we recommend you try to find sources for while collecting your waste oil stock pile.

 

What is BLACK-DIESEL or Black oil fuel additive ?
Used engine/machine oil - to -"Black-Diesel" process!
 
Black-oil is made from many types of micron filtered engine and other lubricating oils with the fatty acids and other water bound contaminates removed by hydrous ion-adsorption process. Our special ion-adsorption beads make the process easy and inexpensive! When Black-oil is mixed with Diesel it becomes Black-Diesel.
Our special hydrous ion-adsorption beads make the process easy and inexpensive! The hydrous ion-adsorption beads can be regenerated forever by burning them in an oven every few years. No alcohol is needed - just pump used machine oils in on one end and out comes usable Black-oil on the other end. The Black-oil is then mixed with 20% to 50% Diesel fuel to become Black-Diesel and used in any Diesel type motor, jet turbine or oil burner. NEVER go below 20% Diesel!!!!
NOTE: Black-Diesel fuels may tend to smoke if insufficient amounts of Diesel fuel are added to the oil. If the burner chamber is kept VERY hot and additional air is injected into the exhaust at the source of ignition smoke generation will be greatly diminished!
 
We recommend you start with 25/75 mix at first and see how it burns in your engine.
(25% filters black oil / 75% Diesel)
Smaller engines seem to run better with higher Diesel fuel to oil ratios while on the other
hand we have seen a very large 300 HP+ "CAT" Bulldozer engines with compression ignition
systems (no glow plugs) run on up to 50% Bio-pass filtered black oil with ease.
 
Warning: Black-Diesel fuels cause the red dye in colored non-taxable Diesel
fuels to become unrecognizable since the fuel turns black. Not legal for HWY use.

 

What is GREEN-BLACK DIESEL Hybrid fuel?

 
This is a mixture of BOTH of the above mentioned WV (waste oil) types. This triple oil blend using Green-oil, Black-oil and Diesel fuel is a hybrid fuel that is popular among many high volume customers in the farming and marine fishing boat communities. Caution should be exercised to add a little extra Diesel fuel to this type of mix. We recommend starting with at least 50% Diesel and backing off slowly watching for negative cold engine start up results. NEVER go below 20% Diesel admixture!!!!

 

Legally - What Is "Bio-Diesel" ??

 

 

 
Mixing ratio and formulation notes:
 
When you make your first batch of Green Diesel try a 50% ratio of Diesel into your pre-filtered WVO (waste vegetable oil) at first.
Once thoroughly mixed suck into the Bio-pass filter with a vacuum pump and THEN push this through your bed of Acusorb beads and then right into your fuel tank,,,,,,,,,,,,, SIMPLE!
(Some oils many need a 50% Diesel fuel to WVO ratio in winter conditions or when a thicker type of WVO is used)
 
After you have put 1000 miles on your vehicle THEN try going to only 10% Diesel and watch for any exhaust smoke,,, If it smokes then you go
back to 25% Diesel ratio and that's the best you can do.
 
If 10% Diesel 90% WVO worked fine then try a 5% Diesel 95% WVO and so on. This is strictly a RESULTS oriented formulation and
must be adjusted based on results and NOT pure math. All engines react differently since they are under different loads, temperatures, compression's and
working stresses.
 
There are no firm rules in the money and environment saving game when using WVO - "WHAT EVER WORKS" is the rule!!!
 
Are you ready for a little trial and error work for the next few months???? Just try to avoid making smoke.
 
Starting to get the hang of it now????
 
All you need is the bio-pass filter and some Acusorb beads. Then some buckets, pipes and basic plumbing,,,,, easy and cheap!!!!!!!!!!!
 
NO engine modifications needed!!!
 


 

The Golden Mixing Rule

 

ALWAYS Remember The BIG #1 Golden-Rule when blending your waste vegetable oils with Diesel fuels.

 

Now,,, you can't go wrong if YOU pay attention!!! Here Goes,,,

 

RULE # 1"If the fuel you make does not work in your engine to your satisfaction THEN just keep adding more

Diesel fuel ratio to your resin bead cleaned waste oil until it DOES work to your satisfaction in your engine"

 

We recommend you start at a 50/50 ratio and cut the amount of Diesel by 5% in each subsequent batch.

At some point the motor may not start easily so THEN you know you have gone too far. SIMPLE

(Also filtering any oils is just abut impossible until they have bend blended with Diesel fuel and other thinners)

 

Our companies Ford truck uses a 95% waste vegetable oil to 5% Diesel full ratio

in the summer and an 80% to 20% ratio in the winter to avoid "gelling".

We are in California and most of the time it is very warm.

Once we took a trip into Canada and we needed a 50/50 ratio.

Even a 50/50 mix is still cheaper than Bio-Diesel chemical costs and labor.

50/50 will always work! Fast, cheap and your easiest way to get fuel at half the price!

(Note: Black-Oils need to have a much higher Diesel ratio!! Refer to Rule #1)

 

Using small amounts of Paint Thinner / Transmission fluid blends can also be very helpful for thinning the thicker oils and for

winterizing fuels. To keep the cetane level up you first need to blend in 16 ounces of red automatic transmission fluid per gallon

of paint thinner used. The transmission fluid makes a great anti-gel or winterizing compound! Using 5% of THIS

blend in your total oil fuel blend makes a premium fuel blend.

The Paint Thinner / Transmission fluid blend is made up according to the formula set

forth above and then THIS is put into your oil fuel at a 5% ratio maximum!

This trick is ONLY to be used for winterizing or thinning thicker oil fuels so if you do not have to use it then do not.

 

A bit of paint thinner and red automatic transmission fluid blended with oil fuels will run good in most Diesel engines!

Many battle tanks in WW2 ran on paint thinner/oil mixtures when ever they ran short of supplies on the battle field and it

worked just like Diesel fuel. The history of this is well noted and is still taught as an alternative Diesel fuel option in the

Military text books of today. The mixture had quick cold weather start up characteristics and excellent lubricity.

 

 


 

 
Gelling fuel / Cold weather notes:
 
90% WVO to 10% Diesel mixtures start to gel at about 41 F. BUT that can vary wildly depending on what type of oil you started with!
LIST; Soy oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, safflower oil, wheat oil, beat oil, palm oil, peanut oil ,,,,,,, the list goes on and on.
Hopefully the oil you choose to recycle is an easy flowing liquid at room temperature.
 
Therefore there is only ONE rule for waste oil to Diesel ratios,,,,, "WHAT EVER WORKS"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Starting to understand now????????? I do ALL my fuel ratio experimentation on my Diesel generator JUST in case I make a ratio mixing mistake.
It's better to stall a generator than to be stuck in traffic!!!!!!!!
When I find a combination that runs good and starts the engine easily on a cold winter morning THEN and ONLY then does it goes into my truck.
In the winter time sometimes the best just can do is to run a 50/50 or half and half mixture of WVO and Diesel fuel .
However in the heat of summer you can really save lots of money and go back to a 90/10 ratio or lower most of the time.

Hints: Dealing With Those Thick And Cloudy Looking Hydrogenated Oils:
Some oils are solid at room temperature since they are so highly hydrogenated.
 
The Margarine story: Margarine starts out as nice clear liquidly corn oil that would work just fine in most Diesel engines and THEN it is HYDROGENATED into that thick yellow paste we call margarine! Do you understand what HYDROGENATION does to oils now???
If your source oil turns liquidly and clear looking when warm and then turns thick and cloudy when cool you have picked the worst type of oil for this process! You need to pre-add at least 50% Diesel fuel to all types of super hydrogenated oils in order for them to be filtered and processed.
Our advice,,, find a new source of oil!!! Chinese restaurants have proven to be an endless source of very fluid and easy flowing used soy oil for many people!
 
"Stay away from thick or pasty oils"


QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS -

 
Q - Will this fuel work in my late model vehicle?
 
A - I know of no limitations for this fuel. If you are worried go 50/50 mix ratio at first and then slowly month after month add more veggy oil until your vehicle has trouble starting on a cold morning, smokes excessively or any other observation you deem unfit. THEN go one step back to the Diesel fuel / VWO oil mixture that worked good previously. It's just a matter of being careful, making changes slowly and observation of what works and does not work.
 

 
Q - I can't find a stainless steel fuel filter for my vehicle, what do I do???
 
A - In this case you will have to buy a paper filter, remove the paper and replace it with stainless steel "OO" wool and or 200 mesh stainless steel wire cloth or both.
 

 
Q - John Phillips wrote:
"I have seen on web pages that some say the beads do not work, but others defend them" What's up?
 
A - I think I can help your confusion. BOTH stories are true. For those people trying to process thick hydrogenated fatty oils WELL,,, forget it!
The beads will not work on those super thick types of oil/greases and those people are telling the truth. For that stuff you will need to add at least 50% Diesel fuel before it will work well in any of our processes.
Experienced oil gatherers will get the good liquidly soy from the Chinese restaurants, fish and chips joints and other such cookeries that mainly use SOY OIL and they are having REAL good luck with our process! Hence the good reviews you are hearing about. This process is best suited to the thinner oils out there and there are still millions of gallons per week NOT YET getting collected for fuel purposes. There is plenty of used soy oil to go around.
Be a smart "grease collector" and go for the runny stuff : )
I hope this helps clear things up. P.S. I would appreciate if you would post this quote up on some of those news groups please. It may help avoid future confusion for those people collecting that crude that looks like lard when it is cold!
 
 

Q - Will my stock engine burn Bio-pass processed oil without modifications?
 
A - YES! This is a ready to use fuel once the mixture has been through our process. No engine modification needed IF enough REAL Diesel fuel is used in the WVO admixture. The trick is to use as little Diesel fuel as possible. If your motor is hard to start in the morning THEN next batch use a higher Diesel to WVO ratio, simple real time experimentation is how you will figure it out. That is the only rule since ALL engines run different on this fuel. Super high compassion Diesels run very well with only a 10% Diesel to 90% WVO ratio. The lower compression Diesel engines need more Diesel fuel admixture to start quickly on cold mornings. These low compression Diesels usually have glow plugs. High compression Diesel engines in tractors and generator sets do not require glow plugs because of very high cylinder compression. Once WVO is mixed with Diesel the WVO become super stable, will not settle out and has a shelf life of about 500 years in a sealed container.

Q - Christopher Evans wrote:
Hey guys, The best crop for oil production is by far palm. It dwarfs sunflower oil production per acre.
Of coarse it's not possible to grow oil producing palm across the USA.
Not trying to be a know it all, just want you to have accurate info while you do your good work.
Sincerely, Chris Evans
 
A - Thank you for your input. You do bring up a good point and here is our point. We are just trying to keep the information practical. If one throws a bag of sun flower seeds on the ground you have LOTS of oil plants only 4 months later. Sun flowers will even grow in anywhere, from Alaska to Columbia,,,, anywhere! It's the most practical plant so that's why it was our number # choice. As far as the oil palm it will not grow in 85% of the M-7 industrialized countries of the northern world. Most of the northern hemispheres population lives in the "Snow-belt" (this includes Europe too) plus an oil palm takes about 10 years of growth before it is mature enough to out produce sun flowers.
 

 
Q -What are the pros and cons with using Dual-pole resin verses the Acusorb beads.
 
A -Acusorb is fully regeneratable media so it saves you money in the long run while dual-pole is only disposable. Acusorb beads are the choice of production facilities while dual-pole resins are more suited for convenience and small scale fuel production by individuals.
 

 
Q - Serge Trullet owns a 1985 Mercedes Benz 300D
I drive an average of 2900 miles per month, all done between Memphis TN, and my home in N.E. Mississippi. I would like to hear the opinions of
other folks who've been using this method in their daily driving vehicles. I'd like to learn of any vehicle performance changes, frequency of engine
fuel filter changes, any malfunctions attributable to the fuel mix, and any tips on the use of the Bio-Pass process.

A -Your power will remain the same OR even increase (WVO has more BTU's per gallon or more bang for your buck)
If you stick with your paper fuel filter your will be sorry after about 1000 miles for driving! It WILL swell and choke!
Invest in a stainless stain or carbon fiber fuel filter. The more common malfunction is the "FIRST COLD DAY" syndrome.
As we head tomorrow's winter the fuel in your tank gets thicker.
Well, one morning your engine may not start and you had BETTER have your can of ether* ready to go so you can get the engine started.
NOW before this happens AGAIN spend some more money on more Diesel fuel and get your admixture ratio WAY up for winter driving!
You will save MOST of your money in the summer months when you can get away with almost anything,,, fuel ratio wise.
 
*Ether is not good for engines!!! Only use it to get you out of an OCCASIONAL jam! Occasional being the important word here!
Hope this helps you.
 

 
Q - Can I use this in my Blue Angel oil burner for home heating?
 
A -We have lots of people using oil burners so I assume a Blue Angel is just a brand name. Depending on your oil ratio and WO type you may have to make some modifications IF you start getting soot or black smoke! In order to burn this type 50/50 Fuel oil / WO mixture you need LOTS of extra air to burn off the carbon (Soot) so you may have to drill some extra holes in the burner chamber just behind the spray nozzle so some extra air gets sucked in. Also open your air mixture flap ALL the way open too! You may also need to add a stainless steel screen "burn screen" about 6" form the nozzle to create a super heated zone for the carbon to burn off in. This screen glows white hot in front of the flame and MUST be made of stainless steel or it WILL burn up. Stainless lasts forever. Find a screen made of the thickest wire gauge possible with a 1/4" mesh opening pattern. The screen is suspended in the burn chamber or pipe just about 6" in front of the nozzle by sandwiching it between lots of 3" long stainless sheet sheet metal screws in front and in back of it. The extra air plus the white hot stainless steel screen completes the full burning process of any extra carbon (soot) and then you will have a clean burn PLUS no sooting.
NOTE: positions the screen will take some intuition and a bit of experimentation since oil burners are all built different. Just get it to glow and do not put it to close to the flame either, it has to be placed just the right distance.
 

 
Q - FRANK TRESSO wrote: I have 2 questions.
1. How does the salt get filtered out of the fuel?
2.Since salt is a corrosive won't it harm my fuel system?
I am considering on buying you system but these items do bother me.
Thank you
Frank Tresso
 
A - Salt and oil do not mix. Salt bonds ONLY to "water bonders" (water bondable molecules) and they drop to the bottom of the mix tank ridding the fuel of hidden water, glycerin, fatty acids and all other "water bonders". The lighter and now clean oil floats UP to the top of the tank and out of the top drain hose for use as clean fuel. The heavier salt and or salt water stays at the bottom of the tank becoming a "Gunky" layer of soapy looking goo that needs to be tapped out of the bottom drain valve every few weeks or so.

FUEL FILTERS
 

Points of interest: When you add a bottle of "Octane booster" or "Diesel injector cleaner" into your fuel tank they do not require a fuel tax even though they burn just like fuel. Adding vegetable oil FUEL ADDITIVE serves a very legitimate purpose as it lowers exhaust pollution and increases your Cetane level!
I can't personally think of a more noble purpose for any FUEL ADDITIVE than saving the environment by reducing harmful exhaust emissions which is exactly what vegetable oil does when added to Diesel fuel. It lowers sulfur levels and burns cleaner. Unburned veggy oil is also not photo-chemically reactive in the atmosphere and cannot cause photo-chemical smog like other unburned hydrocarbons can.
Federal law has not yet ruled on the taxation of "Fuel Additives" A fuel additive most have a legitimate purpose like cleaning the injectors , lowering exhaust emissions or lubricating the engine which is what alternative oils do when added into the Diesel fuel you just pumped into your tank at the filling station.
 
A funny but true story.
In the UK Diesel fuel is twice the price of wholesale priced soy or canola oil, also called 'Salad Oil' in the UK.
A British newspaper reports that a grocery store owner in Wales kept finding dozens of empty salad oil contains in the store parking lot night after night and did not understand why this was happening. It seems that the truckers were topping off their big fuel tanks with salad oil before continuing on their trek.
Currently British taxation agencies have placed cameras in these areas. Exhaust pipe emission sensitive dogs are also being employed to sniff out the salad oil using scoundrels.


 

GET YOUR VEHICLE FUEL AT THE GROCERY STORE!
 
Organic oil fuels like Bio-Diesel, Green oil, Black oil and Soy bean oil fuels will also play a big role in building the "Diesel Future" and the new "Diesel Economy"
The piston Diesel, turbine and jet are really the only type of engines you can "GROW" fuel for! With a plant or flower you can't grow gasoline but you CAN grow Diesel fuel in your garden!
Our future is definitely going to be based on oil fuels more than you can possibly imagine!
Make your next vehicle purchase a Diesel and get ready!
 
See used oil powered engines
 

 
Why Burn Waste Oils?
 
What happens to the millions of gallons of used oil and lubricants that are drained from our nation's cars and trucks each year? The question demands an urgent answer when you realize that one gallon of used oil can contaminate millions of gallons of ground water. Waste oil is free for the taking and should be dealt with by proper burning techniques that save the environment.
as well as vital energy reserves. Do your part to save the environment while keeping a few more dollars in your pocket.
 
The Secret to EPA rule 40 CFR 279.23 / Capital Incentive -
If people realize that used oil is a valuable commodity instead of just a disposal product they
will do everything in their power to save it, control it and to use it for saving money on fuel costs.
 
 
How does the government feel about burning used oil ?
 
EPA Rule
40 CFR 279.23
Most states follow the simple US EPA's rules as
written. That's because the Used Oil Recycling Act
passed by Congress in 1980 established a national
policy governing used oil. Burning used oil for
energy recovery on-site is defined as "recycling."
Government leaders recognize making used oil
valuable for hundreds of thousands of small
businesses is the best way to prevent dumping and
water pollution. That is extremely important since
just one gallon of used oil can contaminate over a
million gallons of drinking water and damage not
only human health, but also plants, marine and wild
life.
 
The EPA's electric generator and oil burner rule states:
 
Oil burners or Generators may burn used oil on-site for energy recovery provided that:
 
(1) the business burns only used oil that they generated or received from household "do-it-yourself" sources.
 
(2) the air or water heater is designed to have a maximum capacity of not more than 0.5 million BTU input per hour; and
 
(3) the combustion gases are vented to the outside air. Never burn your used oil just to get rid of it. EPA requires the energy recovered from burning the oil be used for a legitimate purpose, such as for hot water for washing vehicles, heat for your building or making electricity.
 
Reduce your heating bill
 
Every gallon of used motor oil, transmission fluid, hydraulic fluid and gear oil contains over 140,000 BTU's of energy!
You can easily convert those BTU's into free fuel to heat your shop, run a diesel tractor or electric generator!
You can greatly reduce your reliance on expensive heating oil, propane and natural gas.
 
Eliminate your enviro-liability
 
No one can fully relieve you of your 'cradle to grave' responsibility as a generator or receiver of
used motor oil and other vehicular lubricating fluids.
 
Recent court decisions confirm that your enviro-liability cannot be re-assigned to a waste hauler or garbage company. Now you can gain peace of mind from the threat of environmental cleanup costs.
 
It's easy to meet EPA guidelines for on-site recycling of used oil. It's some of the
best news to come along in years - for you and the environment. The EPA wants you to do this!!!!
 
NOTE: Not all oil burners will fire-up or are designed to run on used oils!
 

Even the world's military is catching on

to the Diesel Future / Oil Economy idea.

 
See a video of the worlds first production Diesel
Dirt Bike and hear the reason's why it's such a great idea!!!

 

SEE VIDEO

 

 

 

World's most powerful Diesel Engine! Over 108,000 horse

power at ONLY 102 RPM - LINK http://www.bath.ac.uk/~ccsshb/12cyl

Look carefully in the middle of the photo and you will see a

person standing wearing yellow overalls - INCREDIBLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 


 

"Clean-Air Czar of California Shifts to Accept Diesel Engines!!! --
In Controversial Turn-Around, Regulator Sees Diesel as Alternative in Global-Warming Fight" --
The Wall Street Journal, October 24, 2002: For years, Alan Lloyd has regarded diesel as a dirty word, synonymous with brown haze and cancer-causing black soot. It's a view he has shared with aging environmental activists across the U.S.
In a striking change of heart the chairman of the powerful California Air Resources Board is taking a new look at Diesel vehicles. He thinks they're poised to emerge as part of the solution to a different environmental problem that's gaining more attention in the U.S.: Global Warming... Here, Diesel engines are the greener option because they don't pump out as much so-called greenhouse gas as gasoline engines do. Dr. Lloyd says he has concluded that a new generation of high-tech diesels developed for Europe bear little resemblance to the smoke-spewers that Americans remember from the 1970s and 1980s.
Alan Lloyd added the important fact that Diesel engines power 37% of all new cars sold in Europe (62% in France and 34% in Germany) , with the share predicted to rise to 45% - by 2005 -- but fewer than 1% of new American cars have Diesel engines. America is poised for a diesel motor vehicle revolution that few people know is coming! One reason American lags behind other industrialized nations in general is the poor quality of diesel fuel sold in the US. A 1998 report on fuel lubricity claimed North America had the poorest quality Diesel fuel in the entire world! Tests found that adding vegetable oil into Diesel fuels created giant leaps in cylinder wall longevity and Diesel fuel lubricity. Over 50% of the US Diesel fuel was found to be below the standards of lubricity recommended by equipment manufacturers!!!!! This is a serious problem for US consumers. In the USA Diesel auto's required major engine overhauls after 300,000 miles while their identically manufactured counterparts fueled in Europe went from 600,000 to 1,000,000 miles in between rebuilds!
It is widely believed that introducing vegetable oils into Diesel fuels could more than double the life of most Diesel engines and create more environmentally friendly exhaust emissions. Vegetable oils are also greenhouse gas neutral or more correctly CO2 neutral!!!!
 
 
LLOYD SOLD US OUT - See movie here
 
Then click link below for more info on the Hydrogen Car Scam.
 
MORE HERE

Techno-fixes -
Techno-fixes are pipe dreams in many cases," said Kert Davies, research director for Greenpeace, which has been conducting a broad campaign against Exxon Mobil. "The real solution," he said, "is cutting the use of fossil fuels by any means necessary."
 
Well Mr. Davies. Techno-fixes are here and available TODAY that can drastically slash fossil fuel use and you did say "By any means necessary".
Green-Diesel is not a perfect or long term solution but running on 75% veggy oil and 25% Diesel run through our BIO-PASS process is a fast and easy solution that people can start using today! The major advantage of our Green-Diesel / Bio-Pass method is that no technical experience is needed and no toxic or burning chemicals are necessary.

 
Back yard Bio-Diesel chemists are playing with a toxic time bomb - Sodium or Potassium based alcohols used in Classic Bio-Diesel production can make ground water toxic if spilled into the soil and can create nasty's like methyl-mercury and methyl-arsenic, chromium complexes and their ethanol counterparts if ethyl alcohol is used. This toxic reaction occurs when these toxic heavy metals are "leached" (dissolved) out of normally healthy and stable soils by Bio-Diesel making chemical spills.
The thought of people using methyl or ethyl alkali salt compounds in their back yards and farms is really scary if you consider the long term effects of chemical leakage or accidental spillage.
Just .003 PPM of methyl-mercury in ground water can eat your brain cells like a cancer. Methyl heavy-metal toxins are the most vicious of all toxins since they bond so readily with the tissues of organic life forms like us. All it takes is some alkali-alcohol spillage to start the leaching process because mercury, arsenic, lead etc, are naturally found in ALL soils in varying amounts just to name a few. Native heavy metals normally found in soils do not constitute any danger until they are made water soluble by digestive chemicals such as the various methyl and ethyl caustic salt groups used in the Classic Bio-Diesel processes. Heavy metals normally exist in dirt as safe OXIDES which are NOT soluble in rain water. However once digested by methyl and ethyl caustic chemistry they can turn into water soluble hydroxides, methylides/(ates) and ethylides/(ates)
 
As Bio-Diesel becomes more popular it is just a matter of time before the first toxic tort suits are filed for the mass contamination of ground water. Sloppy back yard chemists who didn't use the proper double containment vessels to guard against accidental spills will be the first to fall.
It is interesting to note that in almost every article and video we have seen concerning Bio-Diesel production no one seems to address leakage or spills. In fact the person doing all the mixing of the chemicals in those old used barrels is usually doing so right on top of exposed soil. Ever heard of a leak?
Just 20 gallons of methanol salt compounds spilled into the ground is a long term disaster beyond the compression of most people since it is such a powerful leachent for metals in soils. In fact Sodium-methanol is the chemical of choice for striping (leaching) mercury, lead and other toxic metals from "pulp-carbon" used in the Gold recovery circuits of most major mining corporations.
 
Our advice is to leave Bio-Diesel to the experts. For home and farm Diesel brewers use the Bio-Pass process.
 
Interesting Tips - People who really take care off their Diesel engines add a teaspoon of castor bean oil to every gallon of
Diesel fuel !!! Castor bean oil burns clean and is a SUPER LUBRICANT for Diesel engines.
The old timers (heavy equipment operators) say that by adding castor bean oil the life of a Diesel engine can easily be doubled!een oil blck oil Bio diesel filters Biodesel

The History of Rudolf Diesell Bio

 
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BULK HEAD FITTINGS TO FIX BROKEN THREADED FITTINGS ON TANKS
 
 
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