Bio Diesel / Green Diesel / Black Diesel
Making Equipment and Supplies
 
 
Learn how to make virtually free fuel to run cars, trucks, heaters and generators! Restaurants and automotive garages PAY to have their used oil hauled away! These oils are FREE for the taking plus you will be doing the shop owner a favor too! Used cooking and crankcase oils can easily be converted into fuel that can run all Diesel and turbine engines! Learn how by reading this web page.
 
Glycerin has an affinity with blend with
water so it will bond to water if given a chance.

Our Acusorb® beads act as "Water-Bond Magnets" while our Wicking filter will not allow water soluble chemicals to pass through it. Since only oil can cling to the Wicking filter it effectively repels any water soluble chemicals like Glycerin and fatty acids thus keeping them from passing through. Between these two actions oil is made clean enough to burn in any engine.
 
BUY NOW!
 

Legally - What Is "Bio-Diesel" ??

 

SALT CRACKING KIT
with ACCESSORIES
 

More info on our disposable paper 5 gallon bucket filters

 
VEGETABLE AND ORGANIC OIL CRACKING BREAK THROUGH! (Not for black oils)
Chloric Oxyacid Group / Hydroxide - Oil Cracking From Salt Crystal Shearing
HOW TO MAKE CLEAN OIL USING ONLY ROCK SALT -
 
 
Cracking or chemical cracking means splitting the unwanted waxy/acids and glycerin/soap groups away from the vegetable oil (Esters) but again be reminded this will ONLY work if a radically vigorous type of agitation device is used to aggressively mix and mill the excess salt crystals while whipping in copious amounts of air into the mixture which jump starts the cataylization process. The salt is "surface oxidized" by billions of -500 angstrom sized air bubbles and a whole new set of kinetics takes over. This is called Oxy/Salt cracking. The oxygen in the air bubbles momentarily opens and combines with two of the eight electrons in the Chlorine atoms valance since some of the salts are forming several nascent types of Chloric Oxyacids right on the surface of the salt crystals. Excess Oxidation can also cause electron drift from the Hydrogen
toward the Oxygen creating mainly HClO but also some HClO2, HClO3, HClO4 are formed as well. This leaves salts opposite or equilibrium chemical Sodium Hydroxide remaining in the mix to act upon the oil also. Both chemicals act as cracking agents working in tandem and doing their respective separate jobs in this wild brew that was discovered by scientists in the early 1920's.
The scientists noticed that Sea-water become temporarily but extremely corrosive while enduring a high-shear agitated state while in the presence of air bubbles. The extreme pressure forces of high shear coupled with a tremendous cross section of the Sea-water or salt crystals being exposed to billions of air bubbles created this effect. The problem is that some but not all of the chlorine atoms have taken up residence in the empty holes (caps) left by the vacating glycerin. Alcohol usually ends up in this spot during traditional transrectification processes. Most of the Chlorine has formed Glycerin/Soap groups but not all of it. These stray Chlorine atoms can be quickly removed since Chlorine has a strong negative charge and when passed through a bed of Acusorb-Beads the Chlorine atoms quickly yield to the powerful attraction of the beads and are easily removed.
 
The Oxy/Salt process is an economical advancement to the well recognized two-step acid/base ASTM oil cracking methods. The Oxy/Salt process will cause a foamy layer of waxy-acid groups to form and float on the top (See larger photo) as well as a more Alkaline layer of glycerin-soap groups to form underneath the fuel oil layer. Salt or Sodium Chloride is made up of an acid molecule (Chlorine) as well as an Alkaline molecule (Sodium).
 

NOTE: Any remaining salt-oils are fully removed by the Acusorb beads like a powerful MAGNET!!

No salt-oils make it past the powerful pull of the acusorb beads!! 100% of salt-oils are captured!

 
 
Note: This process can be done at room temperature but agglomeration and
separation goes much faster when it is done warm but never over 93 F. !!!
More info on Salt CRACKING.
 
 
Basic Starter Formula By Volume For Making B90:
80 parts vegetable oil, 10 parts rock salt, 10 parts Diesel fuel.
 
If you have chosen or veggy oil carefully and it is nice a clean
then you can try for B100!
90 parts vegetable oil, 10 parts rock salt. Mix well !!
 
Do not worry about salt getting into the oil. Your Acusorb beads will scrub and remove all traces of salt and other contaminants since it pulls in both negatively AND positively polarized molecules. Any salt molecules still sticking to the caps or ends of the hydrocarbon chain will be removed leaving only a clean ester remaining (Oleic and Linoleic types)
 
 
LARGE SCALE CUSTOM HIGH SHEAR SALT CRACKING -
If you do not have access to a high shear mixer there
are companies that can do it for you under contract.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Have them blend this for 30 minutes under high shear conditions with excess air mixed in.
Now pour into drums and allow 72 hours for agglomeration and separation to occur.
Then filter to 10 micron and pass all fuel oil through Acusorb bead bed. Done!
 
DO NOT TRY THIS WITH YOUR PAINT MIXER!!! YOU WILL FAIL!!!
TRY A TYPE OF AGITATION ABOUT 500 TIMES MORE VIOLENT AND
THEN YOU WILL BE GETTING CLOSER TO A "SHEARING" ACTION.
 
Salt process notes:
The only mistake people have made is being impatient thus they used cloudy fuel thus clogging
their fuel filters,, not a big deal but annoying. Just be patient and wait for your separations to
occur. If your fuel is 'Gem Clear' you've done it right! It is that simple and that just takes time : )
 
Cloudy Fuel = BAD
Gem Clear = GOOD
 
 

 
Buy your own cracking impeller
 
High shear cracking impeller for high
speed drill motor with 3/8" chuck -
Requires 3000 RPM Drill motor minimum!
 
These impellers are offset and vibrate a bit so the blades do not travel in the same
orbits when mixing. This crates greater shear forces but is harder on your hands.
 
 
#CRACK18 - (Balanced for high speed use)
High shear impeller with 18" shaft for high speed drills with 3/8" chuck
Requires 3000 RPM + Cracks fuel in 6 minutes of agitation time.
 
BUY NOW!
 
 
 
 
 
 
3 micron Cloth Bag filter for 5 gallon pails.
UNBREAKABLE / REUSABLE
(USED FOR SUPPORTING PAPER FILTER BAGS)
 
 
Each filter can handle 5000 gallons of oil flow and then
you can put it in you laundry machine and reuse it forever.
Comes with pull strings to cinch filter firmly over pail.
 
#CF3 - One 3 micron cloth filter
BUY NOW!
#PF5 - One 5 pack of disposable 10 micron paper filter liner bags .
To be used ONLY as liners bags within the #CF5 cloth filter bag !!
5 pack BUY NOW!
Each filter can handle 5000 gallons of oil flow and then you dispose of it!
 
More info on our disposable paper 5 gallon bucket filters

 

 

Stop Trying To Be A Alkaline/Alcohol Scientist!
Here are the advantages of the Bio-Pass fuel making process.
 
 
Bio-Diesel Glycerin byproduct buyers list;
(NOBODY YET)
Good reasons NOT to use the Alkaline/Alcohol method.
Diesel fuel is already hydrophilic (attracts water) so why add to
the problem by adding a SUPER-hydrophilic agent like alcohol?
 
Alcohol has a naturally high-octane index with is why super high compression engines in race cars run so well on alcohol based fuels. Lower distillates like Diesel fuels have a high cetane index. Octane and cetane indexes are INVERSE scales to each other so one naturally counteracts the other is most cases. A Diesel engine needs an adequate cetane level in order to operate properly. Cetane is a long hydrocarbon chain chemically called 1-hexadecane. It is written as C16H34 or a chain of 16 carbon atoms with 34 hydrogen atoms attached also referred to as paraffins and are members of the wax family.
Fuels that have a high octane number automatically have a low cetane number, and a high cetane fuel has a low octane number. Anything with a high octane rating will retard Diesel fuel's ability to ignite upon injection. Any excess alcohol left in your Alkaline/Alcohol brewed Diesel fuels will inhibit combustion in your Diesel engine since it raises octane thus lowering cetane! Improper Alkaline/Alcohol ratios can easily leave excessive alcohol in your home brewed fuels and this requires lots of water washing, rinsing, time and energy to remove!
As we mentioned earlier Diesel fuels are extremely hydrophilic thus attracting water so now your fuel is wet again.
Making ASTM grade Alkaline/Alcohol brewed fuels can be a real mess unless your a top notch chemist!
 
 
Do Alternative Diesel Fuel The Easy Way With Acusorb® Beads!
 
We do not sell books on the Bio-pass process since it's so simple! You can mix together any ratio of Acusorb® bead cleaned Green and Black (vegetable and crank case) oils and then add some ordinary Diesel fuel to the mixture. If you get stingy with the amount of Diesel fuel you add to the blend your engine or heater will start producing excess smoke. So then you add more Diesel fuel to the next batch until it burns acceptably cleaner and there you have it,, a cheap and clean burning fuel! It's not rocket science.
Do what ever works and never argue with success! Hint; A good starting point is 75% waste oil and 25% Diesel.
 

ABOUT THE BEADS?
 
Acusorb beads can be reused by simply heating them and driving off the contamination.
 
Acusorb® Beads
Hydrous Ion-Adsorption and Re-esterification beads -
(This inorganic Polymer contains Silver and Zinc chlorides and nitrates creating powerful hydrous attraction)
 
Reuse them hundreds of times!
Can be regenerated by heating!
A 30 lb. container is capable of processing over 1,000,000 gallons of oil in its life time (assuming average restaurant grade deep frying oil).
 
When your oil starts coming out milky it's a sign that the beads need regeneration. When you reactivate and heat the beads you will see lots of dense white smoke coming out of the oven. This is the Glycerin vaporizing off of the beads.
(Back in an older Hollywood Glycerin was the chemical of choice for making artificial fog and smoke on many movie sets. Now-a-days they use propyleneglycol called "fog fluid" instead since the fumes
are less chocking then the acrolein fumes caused by glycerin vaporization.
 
Just make sure you bake the beads at least 300 feet away from people, pets and other homes so that the dense white smoke of the vaporizing glycerin doesn't become a nuisance. Breathing any of these fumes is to be STRICTLY avoided! Acrolein fumes can be toxic in high concertations. Glycerin smoke is not toxic in tiny amonts but you just never know what kind of other nasty stuff people may have dumped into their waste oils.
 
The whole Acusorb process is a VERY cost effective one, much cheaper than using thousands of gallons in alcohol for the Bio-Diesel process. Green oil and Black oil fuel additives are also non-caustic, pH neutral and do not require washing or pH adjustments like Bio-Diesel fuels do.

 

How to regenerate the Acusorb® beads
After your Acusorb beads have absorbed all the water molecule groups (25% of their own weight) they can be reactivated by simply oven baking them at between 325 and 350 degrees F. for a few hours or until they stop smoking. Simply place the beads into a large aluminum "Turkey" basting tray available from at any grocery store.
Many veteran "bead bakers" have reported that they use the smoke as a signal that the regeneration of the beads is complete. As soon as the beads stop producing the majority of their smoke the oven is turned off. The beads are then allowed to cool in the oven until they reach about 100 degrees F. then are immediately dumped into a bucket of clean oil to keep them from absorbing water from the air. These beads are now ready for use again!
Notes: Do not over bake the beads and never exceed 375!!! If they turn black they have been over cooked and are DOA!
 
(Do not try this in your home oven! Purchase an old used electric oven with thermostat and put it outside!)
 

"Alkaline/Alcohol is a great process for big corporate plants but is not necessarily the best route for small

companies or individuals seeking energy independence. The Acusorb bead process is a proven alternative"

 
 
Testing if Acusorb® beads need regenerating
 
TESTING PROCEDURE
 
1. Add one teaspoon of water to one cup of new soybean or rape seed oil.
2. Place this mixture into a drink blender and blend until white a creamy (5 minutes or more is best).
3. Pour the white creamy mixture into two glasses.
4. Add a tablespoon of NEW Acusorb beads into one glass and then a tablespoon of the OLD used beads into the other glass.
 
Check the next morning (8 to 12 hours) and observe the condition of both milky/oily water solutions.
The glass with the new beads should be crystal clear as all the water is in the beads now!!!
If the test solution containing the used beads is still milky white then the beads need regenerating. Heating them to 325 to 350 F and NO hotter for a few hours in an electric oven should do the trick. For more info on regenerating beads read the article below.
 

 
Pricing on 3/16" Hydrous Ion-Adsorption and Re-esterification beads -
Silver And Zinc Salts Added For Extra Holding Power!!!
*30 lbs of beads is enough to process 5000 gallons of waste oil before
regeneration is required assuming the oil is not extremely contaminated.
 
MAXIMUM OIL FLOW RATE-
For every 30 lbs. of beads you have in your waste oil circuit
you will be able to process approximately 8 to 16 gallons per hour.
384 gallons per day maximum flow rate for new or freshly recharged beads. This rate may decrease as the beads get saturated with contaminants. The oil flowing out of the beads should always look clear when you have the flow rate adjusted properly. Extremely contaminated oils may need to be processed at slower flow rates!
 
#AB30 - 30 lb. bag of Acusorb beads BUY NOW!
 
 
This kit is for training and testing proposes. Once you can make good quality fuel with this kit you will most likely want to build your own system using larger 55 gallons drums for increased volume. Practice with this smaller system first because it does require skill! ONCE you have mastered the right technique you can expect to be making up to 30 gallons of fuel per day with the #SCK5 kit. A 55 gallon drum model could produce in excess of 300 gallons per day of fuel!! Also experts in the salt cracking technique can get away with only adding 5% total Diesel fuel into their used vegetable oil blends. To up-size your production simply use this kit as the template for a larger system. This kit shows you the basics and acts as a training and lab tool while providing you with plenty of engine fuel for long term testing and evaluation of this technique. The interaction of the salt with the oil requires patient observation, the longer you wait for the fuel to separate away from the waxy acids and glycerin layers the more fuel you can except to harvest per lot. This does not mean you have to wait for only 5 gallons at a time to separate, you can mix up and pour hundreds of tanks full of fuel so no time is wasted waiting for your separations to occur. Here at our research facility we use a 150 gallon fish aquarium with clear tempered glass sides so we can see the fuel separation very clearly. Once we see that the clarified fuel is in the middle layer we can then selectively remove only that fuel layer with a self-priming hydraulic gear pump or siphon hose. The disposal of the Waxy acids and Glycerin is up to you alone. This blend of Waxy acids and Glycerin has great water proofing qualities when mixed with LIME and PLASTIC CEMENT concrete blends. Hence we have discovered a fantastic use for this waste material, we simply turn it into landscaping boulders. They repel water very well and thus no Moss or other Likens can grow on them. As it turns out when waxy acids and glycerin are mixed with Lime the high pH forms a very durable and completely water-proof concrete! Traditional Bio Diesel processes do not produce waxy acids so this is a disposal method unique to only salt cracking processors.
 
Mixing time and salt concentrations depends much on the type of oil you choose to work with and how badly contaminated it is. Soy oil from Chinese restaurants is classically the cleanest oil you can find. Some used oils are much better than others and this is where the kit comes in play, you can learn good Bio-Diesel making techniques very quickly when working on a small scale. Even when you scale up you will still need your #SCK5 Salt Cracking Kit for doing your lab tests since every new batch of oil reacts differently then the last batch!! You will have to know the mixing time, salt dose and separation time figures in order to make bigger batches efficiently. The #SCK5 Salt Cracking Kit is perhaps the single most important piece of equipment that will always be needed in your fuel making venturers whether large or small scale.
 
 
MORE INFO ON MAKING LANDSCAPING BOULDERS out of your waste glycerin and waxy acids CLICK HERE
 

 

The Golden Mixing Rule

 

ALWAYS Remember The BIG #1 Golden-Rule when blending your waste vegetable oils with Diesel fuels.

 

Now,,, you can't go wrong if YOU pay attention!!! Here Goes,,,

 

RULE # 1"If the fuel you make does not work in your engine to your satisfaction THEN just keep adding more

Diesel fuel ratio to your resin bead cleaned waste oil until it DOES work to your satisfaction in your engine"

 

We recommend you start at a 50/50 ratio and cut the amount of Diesel by 5% in each subsequent batch.

At some point the motor may not start easily so THEN you know you have gone too far. SIMPLE

(Also filtering any oils is just abut impossible until they have bend blended with Diesel fuel and other thinners)

 

Our companies Ford truck uses a 95% waste vegetable oil to 5% Diesel full ratio

in the summer and an 80% to 20% ratio in the winter to avoid "gelling".

We are in California and most of the time it is very warm.

Once we took a trip into Canada and we needed a 50/50 ratio.

Even a 50/50 mix is still cheaper than Bio-Diesel chemical costs and labor.

50/50 will always work! Fast, cheap and your easiest way to get fuel at half the price!

(Note: Black-Oils need to have a much higher Diesel ratio!! Refer to Rule #1)

 

Using small amounts of Paint Thinner / Transmission fluid blends can also be very helpful for thinning the thicker oils and for

winterizing fuels. To keep the cetane level up you first need to blend in 16 ounces of red automatic transmission fluid per gallon

of paint thinner used. The transmission fluid makes a great anti-gel or winterizing compound! Using 5% of THIS

blend in your total oil fuel blend makes a premium fuel blend.

The Paint Thinner / Transmission fluid blend is made up according to the formula set

forth above and then THIS is put into your oil fuel at a 5% ratio maximum!

This trick is ONLY to be used for winterizing or thinning thicker oil fuels so if you do not have to use it then do not.

 

A bit of paint thinner and red automatic transmission fluid blended with oil fuels will run good in most Diesel engines!

Many battle tanks in WW2 ran on paint thinner/oil mixtures when ever they ran short of supplies on the battle field and it

worked just like Diesel fuel. The history of this is well noted and is still taught as an alternative Diesel fuel option in the

Military text books of today. The mixture had quick cold weather start up characteristics and excellent lubricity.

 

Legally - What Is "Bio-Diesel" ??

 

 

CLICK HERE FOR INFO ON "BIO-PASS" PROCESS

 

Not the same as salt cracking but has the advantage of being able to process:

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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